Gladstone Tavern, in the horse country of Somerset Hills, offers creative cooking but those craving a burger will also be satisfied
That old maxim "Life is short, eat dessert first," seems like advice worth taking when it comes to the irresistible s'mores cake at the Gladstone Tavern. It deserves priority. You wouldn't want to find yourself so overstuffed that you wind up missing that last course at this delightful restaurant.
The dish ($8) takes inspiration from the old campfire favorite of graham crackers, marshmallow and chocolate melded into essential gooeyness, but here it's done in gluten-free high style. The base is a crumbly hazelnut dacquoise, and it's topped by flourless chocolate cake and toasted-just-right marshmallow, surrounded by mesmerizing pools of smoky chocolate sauce enhanced with smoked paprika. It's an original, the type of surprise you can expect at this friendly place with just the right touch of sophistication, where creativity flourishes but management hasn't forgotten the brew and burger crowd hanging out in the roomy bar.
This weekend's farm menu at the Gladstone Tavern puts pumpkin on the plate as well as on the porch.Owner/executive chef Tom Carlin has spent a decade developing and refining the tavern, a popular go-to in the Somerset Hills. It operates a 99 percent scratch kitchen, making nearly everything on the menu in-house, from bread to ice cream. The ground beef comes from grass-fed cattle, chicken is local and squid is always fresh, rather than frozen.
He also works closely during the growing season with Melick's Town Farm in nearby Tewksbury on farm-themed menus that offer ingenious specials. They started with peaches in the summer, and ran through corn and apples (a feature was apple celery root bisque, with a crisp, bright aura, highlighted by white truffle oil, $7.50). Now it's focused on pumpkin through Halloween. On that line, pumpkin gnocchi ($10) is enhanced by sage and roasted garlic, with pepitas for a fun, crunchy touch.
No dish is over-arranged, but most are the beneficiaries of imagination. Two key words attracted me to the roasted and braised pheasant ($27). I am a sucker for chestnuts and spaetzle. The accoutrements of the tasty bird didn't disappoint. It is served over an apple chestnut puree that made the most of both complementary flavors, and a mild mustard added to the little dumplings offers a good contrast that neatly counterpoints the apple brandy sauce.
Those who just want small bites can't go wrong with the made-to-order guacamole (mild or spicy, your choice) and warm tortilla chips ($9.50) or the classic crab tots ($11), Maryland lump crab fritters that are gluten-free and so easy to pop into your mouth.
A warming soup on a chilly night is the butternut squash bisque ($8), its flavor boosted by a ham hock and, intriguingly, cocoa croutons that add the depth of chocolate to the mixture, decorated with delicately crispy dehydrated kale that melts almost instantly on the tongue.
It's the perfect prelude to what is perhaps the most popular dish at the tavern, the reliable iron skillet roasted chicken ($23), served simply with pan jus that has an undercurrent of thyme, accompanied by autumn vegetables.
I also highly recommend the crisp duck confit ($24), which for fall has a little rainbow of flavors; pomegranate, braised chard and caramelized sweet potato.
Crispy duck confit with pomegranate, braised chard and caramelized sweet potato is a fall favorite at the Gladstone Tavern.Fish gets good treatment too. The charming pecan-crusted brook trout ($24), served during apple week, was set off by bacon combined with sauteed gala apple, a cider-braising approach that cut the bitterness of greens and grains dotted with apple and cranberries.
Cocktails ($10) made with fresh juices and herbs are also seasonal. A fall favorite is a cranberry margarita, but there are plenty of other choices, including additions for the farm weeks, such as a warm cider toddy. The wine list is long and reasonable, compiled with the same amount of thought as the menu. It offers loads of by-the-glass options, starting at $9.
Carlin developed his expertise working in Manhattan in the '80s and early '90s, at such well-known spots as the Quilted Giraffe and Mondrian. His New Jersey experience involved Rudolfo's in Peapack, a short walk from his current establishment, where, he says, he is "always trying to push forward" -- and succeeding
"I love what I do," he says, noting his thoughts are about "what's coming up next and getting inspired by ingredients or what I see going on at other restaurants," he said.
Contributing to that is chef de cuisine is Ed Gruters, whose stints over the last few decades included American Fare in Maplewood and Odeon in New York City. Carlin notes when he has an idea, Gruters is an expert at execution. Pastry chef Cailyn Bashaw, who worked at the Pinehurst Resort in North Carolina, is a young up-and-comer, while longtime bar manager Robby Seibert is also a musician.
The whole team, including servers, works well for a seamlessly enjoyable experience. Food arrives at the right temperature and in a timely fashion. The setting is country casual with touches of equestrian style, and the two-story building with the wide front porch (home to a lifesize model horse) has three fireplaces. In warm weather, there's also outdoor dining. Live music, generally every other Friday, could be anything from blues to jazz and classic rock, starting at 8:30 p.m. and there's always dancing.
The Tavern is a testament to the wisdom of never being content to settle for success, but rather, to build on it and see what can be done to make things even better.
Gladstone Tavern
273 Main St., Gladstone. 908- 234-9055. GladstoneTavern.com. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Sundays, Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays and 5-9 p.m. Sundays. The tavern menu is available from 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. 1/2
Cody Kendall may be reached at CodyDine@aim.com. Follow Cody on Twitter@CodyDine. Find NJ.com/Entertainment on Facebook.